May 13, 2015

At the Met: When Men Were Dandies


Embroidery Sample
All images are silk and metal threads on wool or silk, French, 1785-1815.  


 During my last visit to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I learned that there was a date when men's fashion turned from fancy plumage to solemn attire: in 1815, at the end of the Napoleonic Wars
the formal dress that was required at French official events fell out of favor for all but the most traditional of ceremonies. At the same time, the European market for ornately embroidered fabrics diminished as men adopted versions of the sober monochrome suit that remains the standard to this day.
But before that time, in the 18th and early 19th centuries, there were gorgeously embroidered fabrics to be had, and French textiles were the height of the art. I often like to wander down to the small gallery attached to the Antonio Ratti Textile Center; the exhibition there, titled Elaborate Embroidery: Fabrics for Menswear Before 1815, is full of examples of beautifully precise imagery, magically conjured with needle and thread.


A detail from the Met's website


The artists had a sensitive eye for expressing the movement of natural forms; petals and leaves have a delicacy as in life. There is even the illusion of transparency in the petals of the peony.




The use of metal threads made some of the fabrics sumptuous. Clothing with such rich embroidery must have been for the nobility.






These less extravagant examples were still designed with elegance and grace, and with an inventive approach to natural forms. There was no information as to who did the designing of these samples, or who did the sewing of the fabrics. There was one image showing a man cutting cloth for a suit and women sitting at tables sewing. It is likely that working women wore out their eyesight making these embroideries for the rich upper classes.




This sample, of oak leaves and acorns, show that flowers were not the only imagery for fabrics.





I love the fluid curves of the above samples, based on natural forms, but interestingly abstracted.




Imagine wearing this lush garden as part of your clothing.




I am awestruck by the craft, and by the loveliness of the imagery in these textiles. I am sorry for the unsung makers of them, sorry for the inequality that brought them into being, yet I am very happy that they exist.


May 11, 2015

A New Textile: "Deep Pink Flow"


Deep Pink Flow, hand dyed wool on linen; 2 panels, each 10 x 10 in.


I did the sketch for this piece at the same time as that for Shield, which has similar curving forms. In that piece there was an illusion of two panels, while here I made two actual panels. The pink forms squiggle close to each other, but do not meet. At first I thought I'd hook the two greens horizontally, or one vertically and the other horizontally; then I had the idea to use a diagonal hooking for the lighter yellow-green, to create more energy on the surface as the diagonal lines push against the pink curve. I hope that all the elements settle into balance.


Deep Pink Flow detail

May 8, 2015

A Walk in the Woods: Early Blooms


Spring Beauty 


The paths in the woods are strewn with delight. The earliest spring wildflowers are blooming, and though tiny––Spring Beauty flowers are only about 1/2 inch across––seeing masses of them bright above the dun ground is so cheering.


Hepatica


The Round-lobed Hepatica is another tiny flower that sparkles in the spring, with a lovely pale violet color, decorated by its little white globes spreading outward from its center.


Yellow Violet


A third of the very small flowers of early spring are the yellow violets, rising above shiny leaves.


Wild Ginger


Here is a flower I'd never seen before, that of wild ginger. It is a small flower, growing close to the ground, so easy to miss. I love the graceful spread of its three narrowing petals. 


Bellwort


Bellwort is a bit taller than the previous flowers; its flower is elegantly suspended, and so graceful in its upturned pale yellow petals.


Trout Lily


It is such a treat to come across this flower in the woods; I see many of the speckled leaves, but not many flowers. It is a small beauty, of an intense yellow. When I see flowers like this I am reminded that our cultivated garden flowers often came from smaller wildflowers.


Eastern Leatherwood


I noticed these tiny pendulous flowers on small trees (or shrubs) along my trail. Their reproductive parts dangle down festively. 


Eastern Leatherwood with insect cocoon, front and back


While photographing those flowers, I noticed this cocoon, another sort of flower.


Maple


After several warm days, the hills are showing the pale new greens of leafing trees; they also show a red haze interspersed with the greens: the red of maple flowers. Their bursting stamens are a perfect metaphor for the explosion of spring.


May 5, 2015

A New Painting: "Large Curve"


Large Curve, egg tempera on calfskin parchment, 7 x 10 in. 


All two dimensional art is an abstraction, even when the image is representational, but the representation/abstraction balance is a sliding scale. Sometimes my paintings are quite close to the image source; at other times I change elements so much that it feels as though I'm making a non-objective painting. Large Curve is in the second category. What attracted me to the image was the large flat curved shape, in a strong rusty orange color. It was set off by some green elements. On the right was a tire, partially shadowed. As I began working, I realized that I didn't want the tire in the painting; it was too much of the real world. So, I flattened it into a partial circle, with a flat shadow running across it. In the source image, the light green vertical bars were actually not vertical, but moving out horizontally towards the picture plane; that did not work at all, so I made them verticals. I felt I needed other elements to establish a repeating rhythm in the greens, so added the shadowed vertical and the horizontal bar along the bottom. The diagonal bar was in the original image; I left it there to play off against the angle of shadow at the right, creating an implied triangle. I made the negative shape at the right dark rather than the light filled area it had been. It was difficult work, but fun, to juggle the shapes and colors, trying to make a simple, dynamic, coherent painting.


Large Curve detail

May 4, 2015

At the Met: The Plains Indians: Beauty, Glory, and Tragedy


George Beaver (Pawnee), Ghost Dance Drum, 1891-92; wood rawhide pigment, 23 in. diameter


The Metropolitan Museum of Art has mounted an incredibly powerful and moving exhibit, The Plains Indians: Artists of Earth and Sky (until May 10). The show contains many masterful works, but it is the narrative arc––from pre-contact to the height of plains culture to contemporary––that makes for such an emotional viewing experience. It is especially emotional for me: I lived for a year, 1975-76, in the small town of Wagner, South Dakota, where I was an artist-in-schools for K-12. Wagner is on the Yankton Indian Reservation, an "open" reservation, so I had many Native American children in my classes and met several plains indian artists, including Arthur Amiotte, who did the last work I show in this post. It was a time of great activism in the American Indian Movement; I was in South Dakota not long after the 1973 Wounded Knee protests and they were on everyone's mind, especially since it was the bicentennial of the founding of the United States.

I am beginning this post with two beautiful late nineteenth century works, both associated with the Ghost Dance spiritual movement. The drum has a dramatic image of Thunderer, ruler of the Sky World, and swallows as elegant flying shapes below it.


Ghost Dance Dress, Southern Arapaho artists, Oklahoma, ca.1890; native-tanned leather, pigment, metal cones. 


This dress was made by a participant in the Ghost Dance. It exhibits, as do so many of the works in this show, a strong and clear design sense, with a vivid use of pattern. This spiritual movement, so full of hope for a return to a world before Whites invaded their lands, was a desperate effort by Plains Indians that was doomed to fail. It began with one man in 1889, the Paiute spiritual leader Wovoka, who preached that dancing the Ghost Dance would banish evil and reunite the living and the dead in peace and prosperity. He urged non-violence and getting along with the Whites, but when the practice reached the Lakota Sioux, they changed its meaning; the Ghost Dance I knew about was one in which its performance would eliminate Whites from their lands, and would return the world to what it had been before contact. The US Army's fear of the Ghost Dance and the Lakota resistance led to the killing of Sitting Bull, and then the massacre at Wounded Knee in 1890. This tragic story, too familiar for all native peoples, underlies my responses to this show, heightening the aesthetic value of the works.  


The Hero Redhorn or Morningstar, Mississippian artist, Spiro Mound, Le Flore County, Oklahoma; 1100-1200; bauxite, 8 7/8 in. 


This small sculpture is simple and strong. It depicts a mythical warrior whose story has been told for centuries. His forward-bending pose and shadowed gaze gives him the air of a seer. Some of the plains indians, such as the Lakota Sioux, were originally from the Mississippi region. 


Shell Mask Gorget, late Mississippian artist, South Dakota, 1500-1700; marine shell, 5 5/8 x 4 1/2 in.


This piece, found in South Dakota, the land of the Lakota, may be a link between the early Mississippian culture and the plains nations. It has a startling simplicity, and for me relates to the human face. It was an adornment worn at the throat and may have had religious meaning. 


Horned Headdress, Eastern Plains, ca. 1780; split bison horns, sinew, deer hair, horsehair, porcupine quills, glass beads, wood, metal cones, cotton cloth, rawhide, birch back, silk ribbon, pigment; 
16 1/2 x 12 x 10 in. 


The complexity of materials in this glorious headdress becomes unified by the clear repetition of triangles over horizontal bands of porcupine quills. Native American peoples had a great sensitivity to the use of pattern in their work. I wrote about this three years ago––"Pattern in Native American Art"––after seeing an exhibit at the Hood Museum of Art. The glass beads used for the blue and white triangular elements, and the metal, are a clear indication of trading with Whites.


Buffalo Effigy, possibly Crow, Wind River Basin, Freemont County, Wyoming; 1600-1800; limestone, L. 8 3/8 in. 


 This small sculpture give an impression of massive strength and power. Possibly used in hunting rituals, it demonstrates the importance of bison to the native peoples. They were used for food and their hides for clothing and shelter, their hair for rope, and their hoofs for rattles; nothing was wasted. They were hunted on foot before horses were introduced by the Spanish in the 17th century; once horses became part of the plains culture, hunting buffalo became easier. They were an essential animal. John Williams terrific novel, Butcher's Crossing, describes, in clear and graceful prose, the wasteful slaughter of these once-numerous creatures.


Robe with Mythic Bird, Eastern Plains artist, probably Illinois Confederacy, ca.1700-1740; native-tanned leather, pigment, 42 3/8 x 47 7/8 in.


There were several painted robes on view, including this early piece, probably collected at a trading post near what is now Saint Louis. The repeated rhythm of the sharp points is enhanced by cross-hatching on the unpainted surfaces; inscribed circles add a counterpoint to the linear elements. 


Robe with Box-and-Border Design, Northern Arapaho, ca. 1865; native-tanned leather, pigment; 69 x 96 in. 

The design of this robe was traditional for Plains women, and was painted by women. The central yellow area contains a patterned box with three descending arrow shapes; it is surrounded by linear patterns that follow the shape of the hide, emphasizing its origins. It is interesting to me that the hides were not evened out, cut into a regular rectangle, but left in the shape in which they came off the animal, acknowledging, even honoring, their origins.



Parfleche Envelope, Cheyenne, ca. 1850; buffalo rawhide, pigment, native-tanned leather, 25 3/4 x 13 3/4 in. 


Plains Indians used parfleche envelopes as containers, sometimes draped over a packhorse in pairs. All the ones I've seen over the years are painted with marvelous geometric patterns. The painting on this envelope is somewhat fanciful, with the black protuberances coming from green and red forms, and with the curving, outflowing green shapes.


Woman's Side Fold Dress, 1800-1825; Lakota or Cheyenne; native-tanned leather, porcupine and bird quills, brass buttons, cowrie shells, glass beads, metal cones, horsehair, plant fiber, woven cotton tape, wool cloth; 49 1/4 x 29 1/2 in.


This was one of the most dramatic garments in the show. The large plain fold, topped with a double line of brass buttons, shining on a dark ground, makes a beautiful contrast with the horizontal lines of colored quills.


Woman's Side Fold Dress detail


The pattern has single bands of quills and thicker bands, all punctuated by red dots (not sure of their material).


Wedding Robe, ca. 1895, detail, native-tanned leather, glass beads, wool felt.


A similar pattern can be seen on this detail of a wedding robe, even with the red dots, this time of felt. The big difference is the use of glass beads here, an item gotten in trade with Whites, as opposed to the traditional quills above.


Woman's Dress, Lakota artist, probably South Dakota, ca. 1865; native tanned leather, glass beads, tin cones; 61 1/2 x 53 3/4 in. 


The flow of lines across the sleeves and bodice of this dress is arresting; as the eye moves across the surface there's almost a feeling of musical tones, with the curves contrasted by small geometric shapes above and below.


Black Prairie Chicken, Yanktonai, Fort Peck, Montana, Hand Drum, ca. 1880-85; wood, native-tanned leather, pigment.


This drum was one of my favorite objects in the show: made by a healer, whose Indian name was Sheo Sappa, it was used in ceremonies. The simple drama of black shapes on a light ground, of the central figure––probably Thunderer, ruler of the Sky World––with its red body and eyes and horn headdress, gives this painting a quality of the elemental and magical.


Feast Bowl, Dakota or Yankton artist, Minnesota or South Dakota, ca. 1850; wood (maple), 
brass tacks. 


For all of you who love to eat, here is Eya, the Eating Monster. Actually, though, he is a malevolent being, wanting to devour all around him. I love this small head with its shiny brass eyes at the end of a large wood bowl. It's amusing that such a monster would be part of traditional feast sculpture.


Arthur Amiotte (Oglala Lakota), Wounded Knee #111, 2001; ink and paper on canvas, 36 x 48 in.


In his complex collage, Arthur Amiotte commemorates the world of the Ghost Dance and the massacre of 1890 at Wounded Knee, showing the people, their land and spirituality. Although Plains Indian culture is not now what it was at the height of its power in the nineteenth century, it is still vibrant, even with all the difficulties of contemporary life. Thanks to the Met for presenting the art of these great peoples.


April 30, 2015

A Walk in the Woods: Spring Waters




In the early spring woods, in places usually dull and dry, are bright patches of reflected sky and trees. These shallow vernal pools turn the world upside down for the brief period that they exist, as they gather the excess moisture of melted snow and spring rains.




Because they are shallow, the pools are a visually complex world, with objects above the water and below, and reflections of branches and sky. Grayish brown leaves become richly colored under water.




Branches draw expressive light lines above the darker pond, relating to their own reflections and those of surrounding trees.




There's a beautiful contrast with the bright, mossy log and the darkly mysterious wet leaves and reflections.




A log with mushrooms provides a different sort of contrast, one that emphasizes light and dark, dry and wet. The view of layered leaves is broken by reflections.




Small bright green plants are flourishing under water.




Mossy rocks frame an expanse of reflected sky, a space that is deepened by the illusion of reflected trees plunging downward.




Liquid and solid, surface and space, illusion and the real; seeing above, below, across. These small pools are magical, evoking the worlds of elves and pixies. They are all the more wondrous for being so short lived.


April 28, 2015

New Hooked Wool Drawings


2015 #5-8, hand dyed wool and egg tempera on linen, each 13 x 11 in.


My idea for this group of hooked wool drawings was simple: a shape inside a border, crossed by a line, straight or angled. Only the line is made of wool loops; all the rest is paint.


2015 #5, hand dyed wool and egg tempera on linen, 13 x 11 in.


I did a lot of sketches, trying out different shapes and color combinations. I ended up with a trapezoid....


2015 #6, hand dyed wool and egg tempera on linen, 13 x 11 in.


....a rectangle....


2015 #7, hand dyed wool and egg tempera on linen, 13 x 11 in.


....a circle....


2015 #8, hand dyed wool and egg tempera on linen, 13 x 11 in.


....and a triangle, each having a line that I thought fit the shape. The colors are both complementary––as in the case of yellow and violet, and blue and dark orange––and in the same color family: red/orange, green/lime green. The color of the wool lines add contrast. I enjoyed working with this simple format, and maybe it will lead to other similar ideas.