The first vegetable of the garden season is one that was planted last May; parsnips stay in the ground all winter, sweetening up, and I dig them as soon as the ground thaws, which this year was on March 18th. I love the candied flavor of parsnips when they are simply roasted with some olive oil, but I also love them in this curried soup where their sweet flavor is a nice counterpoint to the Indian spices. The recipe comes from the marvelous Deborah Madison, in her Greens cookbook. When the weather cooled off after the week of unseasonable warmth, I made a big pot of this soup and have been enjoying it for lunch. It's made with a simple stock, a step I often forgo, but in this case I love the flavor of fresh ginger, so I make it with whatever I have on hand; this is usually just carrots and onions.
The Stock
The parings and fibrous inner cores of parsnips
1 1/2 cups leek greens, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks with some leaves, diced
5 whole branches cilantro
1 oz ginger root, peeled and sliced (Madison says this is optional, but for me it's essential)
1/2 teas salt
7 cups cold water
Put everything together in a pot and slowly bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain immediately. There should be 5 to 6 cups.
The Soup
3 to 4 parsnips, about 7 inches long (my only quarrel with Madison's cookbooks is that she rarely mentions amounts by weight. I like a thicker soup so I used 5 roots, 2 thick ones and 3 thinner. Then I forgot to weigh them...sorry)
4 Tbs clarified butter (I didn't have this so used 2 Tbs butter with 2 Tbs vegetable oil)
1 medium yellow onion, cut into 1/2 inch squares
1 Tbs curry powder
4 Tbs cilantro leaves, chopped
2 to 3 leeks, white parts only (8 oz) chopped. (I use an onion)
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery stalks, diced (I never have celery and don't miss it much)
1 teas salt
5 to 6 cups stock
1 cup light cream
- Scrub the parsnips, trim tops and quarter lengthwise. Cut out most of the fibrous core. Use parings and core for the stock. Chop the parsnips roughly into pieces.
- Heat the clarified butter in a soup pot and add onion. Cook over medium heat until a rich golden brown.
- Stir in the curry powder and half the chopped cilantro and cook for 1 minute.
- Add parsnips, leek, carrots, celery, salt, and stock. Bring to a boil and cook until vegetables are soft.
- Cool soup briefly, then pass through a food mill or puree in a blender or food processor, leaving a little texture with bits of color.
- Return soup to the pot, add the cream, and taste for salt.
- Serve soup garnished with remaining chopped cilantro and a few whole leaves.
I've only eaten this soup hot, but the recipe can also be used for a cold soup. It makes 4 to 6 servings.
No comments:
Post a Comment